https://mybratelier.com/2018/07/24/the-great-linen-experiment/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/mybraflowersm.pngMyBraflowersmhttps://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/linenbrafabricdetail.pngDetail of my printed linen fabricDetail of my printed linen fabric. I love the unexpectedly bright colors, most especially the almost-acid yellow and the deep fuchsia pink. The occasional streaks of white, as if it had been brushed with bleach, add to the intriguing effect.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/linenbrafrontcl.pnglinenbrafrontclhttps://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/linenbraopen.pnglinenbraopenhttps://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/linenbrafrontcu.pngClose-up of front of linen braClose-up of the front of my linen bra. Here, you can see the elastic piping finishing the top edge of the upper cups, as well as the channeling with I applied to the outside of the bra.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/linenbrabackcl.pngBack view of linen braBack view of my printed linen bra, showing the hand-dyed straps, elastic piping on the top edges, lower edge elastic, and powernet used for the back bands. Also visible is the chartreuse rayon lining I put into the upper cups.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/linenbrascrap.pngScrap of printed linen fabricThe scrap of printed linen fabric I hoped to make into a summery bra. Each square on my cutting mat is 1", so you can see I don't have all that much to work with, especially since this end-of-bolt piece was apparently cut unevenly. (Note to self: Get cutting mat that's a prettier color.)2018-12-10T20:53:29+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/other-colormusing-blogs/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/portbloghdr1.pngLindy's Portfolio blog headerhttps://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/sewcmheader3.jpgsewcmheader3It’s a bouncing baby blog! SewColormusing will include sew-along series, special technique tutorials, and general sewing fun!2018-07-24T23:56:01+00:00weekly0.6https://mybratelier.com/2016/08/13/read-my-new-article-color-in-your-closet/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/dotslineorig.jpgColormusinghttps://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/colorinclosetimg.jpgUsing color palettes while you shop2016-08-13T19:15:44+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2016/03/17/bra-fitters-speak-5-tips-to-know-before-you-shop/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/brasquestionsmark.jpgbrasquestionsmarkWith an overwhelming variety of bras available everywhere these days, where do you start? Refinery29's slideshow will help you to see past all the color and lace to focus on fit. (Click the photo to go to the slideshow.)2016-03-17T21:26:04+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2016/03/07/its-a-blog-sewcolormusing-joins-the-family/2016-03-08T02:13:20+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2016/02/01/guess-whos-featured-in-seamwork-magazine/2016-02-01T23:39:32+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/10/28/hue-news-colormusings-e-mail-newsletter-launches-nov-1/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/huenewslogo1.jpgColormusing's Hue News2015-10-29T03:41:14+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/10/22/free-color-palettes-whats-the-catch/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/colourlovers-com-carmel_blue_fuchsia.pngCarmel Blue Fuchsia palette at ColourLovershttps://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/palcarmelbluefuchsia.jpgCarmel Blue Fuchsia color palette at Colormusing.com2015-10-28T22:40:55+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/10/19/the-all-new-colormusing-shop-is-live/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/cmlogo.jpgColormusing logo2015-10-24T17:28:15+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/08/11/but-wait-theres-more-the-lbwb-project/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/lbwbmockup3.jpgMock-up of LBWB Here's the mockup of my LBWB. You can see that I've added considerably to the top edge of the lower cup. (The lower cup is lined with a non-stretch sheer, off-white fabric, one of my new bra-making best friends. It's available from Natasha at ArteCrafts.)https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/lbwbfinback.jpgLBWB backSuch a pretty back! (If you compare this picture with the very first one in this post, you'll see the difference in the length of the white lace panel.)https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/lbwbfinfront.jpgMy LBWB from the frontIt's finished! And I do like the black-and-white combination— elegant and dramatic, but still useful for everyday wear, don't you think?https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/lbwbstrapsfront.jpgAttach straps in frontAfter pinning the strap in place, I simply zig-zagged across to secure the strap to the cup.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/lbwbbackstrap.jpgAttaching straps in backAfter threading the trim through the ring, fold excess trim to wrong side, aligning it with the stitched-down trim; stitch trim ends down to secure the straps.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/lbwbtopcbtrim.jpgTrim top of lace panelUsing the same 2-step method as for the lower part of the bra band, attach elastic trim to the top of the lace panel.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/lbwbfinband.jpgSecuring lace panelBecause the back band of the bra needs to stretch, I used a wide, shallow zig-zag stitch to sew the lace panel to the FOE.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/lbwbfoe.jpgAdding elastic trim to upper edgeHere's the underarm portion of the upper edge of the bra, which I've enclosed in FOE; this trim extends from the point on the top of the upper cup all the way across the back band, and finishes at the same point on the other cup.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/lbwbclosure3.jpgFront closureEven though I've made the space between cups as small as I can (considering the nature of the closure hook), I still feel like there's a little too much space. But I really don't see how I can reduce it even more and still be able to maneuver the hook.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/lbwbclosure2.jpgFront closure insideI've attached my closure so that the Vs straddle the cup seams.2015-08-14T21:50:13+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/07/27/i-asked-you-answered-its-in-the-bag/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/washbagplain.jpgLingerie wash bagShown in my 14" x 18" bag: My Ombré Bra and solid Panty. I've found, though, that I can comfortably fit at least 2 bras and several panties in this bag.2015-07-27T23:47:20+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/07/15/the-little-white-project-a-brief-follow-up/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/lwbptgrp1.jpgMy Little familyNow that the whole family is together in one place, you can see how well all the colors relate to each other— even though each piece was dyed differently. Now it's a nice mini-wardrobe!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/lwbptgrp.jpgMy Little familyNow that the whole family is together in one place, you can see how well all the colors relate to each other— even though each piece was dyed differently!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/lwb2changes.jpgChanges to LWB2The sewing differences in my second LWB.2015-07-27T05:39:37+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/07/08/dye-iy-the-little-white-project-the-final-chapter/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/lwb2flower.jpgEmbellishmentTrue confessions: my stitching on the foldover elastic leaves a lot to be desired. Hey, look— a flower covers it up! And provides a nice shot of contrast to boot.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/lwpbt1tog.jpgLittle White Bra/Panty/ThongMy Little White projects. Clockwise from lower left: Panty dyed in all 1 color (3 dye colors mixed together), bra ombré-dyed with 3 colors, and thong ombré-dyed in 1 color. But wait— there's more!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/lwbt2dyeing.jpgDyeing the piecesOne of the beauties of dyeing the pieces is that they're small enough to dye in yogurt containers!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/lwt2fin.jpgMy Little White Thong 2!As with my bra, using the dark blue-violet dye for the foldover elastic for the legs integrates all 3 colors together in my thong.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/lwb2fin.jpgMy Little White Bra 2!Ta-da! I'm so glad I decided to dye the bridge piece with the blue-violet— it really helps all the colors tie together.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/lwpt3befaft.jpgMocking up!Mocking up my second Little White Bra and Thong. Laying pieces out like this is a great help in deciding which colors to put where; you can see I'm keeping the lightest/brightest hues near the center front, and the darker ones towards the back.2015-07-16T21:32:40+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/quick-links/2015-07-07T23:32:01+00:00weekly0.6https://mybratelier.com/2015/07/06/underwear-or-not-to-wear/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/collection71.jpgLingerie collection My lingerie collection... so far. With 6 bras (5 that are wearable), 2 high-waisted briefs, 1 bikini panty, 2 color-blocked briefs, and 3 thongs, maybe it's time to bring these beauties into everyday rotation! (In case you were wondering, these are the pieces I've made— sewn, and in several cases, dyed— since I started this lingerie adventure in March.)https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/collection71.jpgMy lingerie collectionMy lingerie collection... so far. With 6 bras, 2 high-waisted briefs, 1 bikini panty, 2 color-blocked briefs, and 3 thongs, maybe it's time to bring these beauties into everyday rotation!2015-09-28T17:24:37+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/07/01/dye-iy-the-little-white-panties-that-were/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwpbt1.jpgA coordinating set!Hurrah— a coordinating set!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwp1befaft1.jpgThe LWP, Before & AfterNo, it's not Jekyll and Hyde, The Underwear Edition. It's my Little White Panty, before and after dyeing!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwp1afterdye2.jpgThe LWP, after! When dry, the color of my LWP really surprised me— it's much more on the purple side than the fuchsia, although the foldover elastic trims looks a bit more pink. I like it!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwp1afterdye1.jpgThe LWP, after!When dry, the color of my LWP really surprised me— it's much more on the purple side than the fuchsia, although the foldover elastic trims looks a bit more pink. I like it!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwp1befaft.jpgLWP Before & AfterNo, it's not Jekyll and Hyde. It's my Little White Panty, before and after dyeing!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwtaftdye.jpgThe LWT, after!The shading is quite subtle with the method I used here; the different material used for the band probably influenced the restults as well.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwp1afterdye.jpgThe LWP, after!When dry, the color of my LWP really surprised me— it's much more on the purple side than the fuchsia, although the foldover elastic trims looks a bit more pink. I like it!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwt1dipdye1.jpgDip-dyeing the LWTSince the thong is so small, I'm dyeing it in a yogurt container, placed inside a large blue bowl to catch drips. Since the container isn't self-heating, I made my dye mixture with very hot water (steaming, but not boiling).https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwp1immersed.jpgImmersing the LWP20 minutes in, my LWP has absorbed most of the brighter tones; the left and right edges are starting to show a little more lavender. Don't forget that the colors will always look lighter when your dyed piece is dry!2015-07-05T06:51:02+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/06/30/dye-iy-the-little-white-panty-project/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwt1bandfin.jpgAfter sewing bandA view of the right side of the back, after sewing on the band.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwt1pinband1.jpgPinning the bandAfter seaming the ends of the band together, I've pinned my band to the back of my thong. (Note the foldover elastic trim on the leg edges.)https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwt1pinband.jpgPinning the bandAfter seaming the ends of the band together, I've pinned my band to the back of my thong. (Note the foldover elastic trim on the leg edges.)https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwt2layers.jpgStay-stitching front layersHere's where I stay-stitched the front lace layer to the cotton crotch lining layer, 1/8" from the edge. (Note: The lace here is indeed different— it's for another LWT project, coming soon!)https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwt1pattmods.jpgLWT pattern changesThe arrows are pointing to the original changes I made in this thong pattern; for my LWT, I simply cut straight across the top, rather than along the angled edges. https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwp1cu.jpgLittle White Panty detailHere's the finished LWP, showing the detail of the center front panel, with its 2 layers, plus the flower embellishment. The floral lace is a single layer.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwt1fin.jpgLittle White ThongI modified this thong pattern by putting a wide stretch lace band straight across the top.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwp1whitefin.jpgBefore: Little White PantyMy LIttle White Panty was made with MakeBra's pattern2015-07-01T02:49:26+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/about/2020-06-29T02:41:01+00:00weekly0.6https://mybratelier.com/resources/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/resourcesmont.jpgResourcesPatterns and fabrics and notions... oh my!2015-06-29T19:47:31+00:00weekly0.6https://mybratelier.com/2015/06/28/3-things-ive-learned-from-sewing-bras/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/foe2steps.jpgApplying foldover elasticFOE is not only easy to use, it creates a beautifully simple, clean edge. And it comes in a huge range of colors and prints!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/2ndpantyelastic.jpg3-step zig-zag stitchingIn bra-making (or a panty, as shown here), I use a 3-step zig-zag stitch mostly as the final step in applying elastic.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/bra2befaft.jpgThe making of a braI've learned a lot of new things about sewing since starting to make my own bras!2015-06-28T20:42:15+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/06/22/dye-iy-a-lesson-on-dyeing/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/undyedmatls3.jpgAfter dyeing...to this, or even...https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/undyedmatls2.jpgMaterials before dyeingWant to learn how to go from this...https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwbpyarndyed.jpgHand-dyed yarn and lingerieI dyed several skeins of wool/silk yarn with the same colors I mixed up for my bra and coordinating panties. A hand-knitted bed jacket/shrug just may be in my future.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwt1dipdye.jpgDip-dyeing thongMy first Little White Thong, in the process of being dip-dyed.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/dyerits.jpgRIT dyesMy liquid RIT primary dyes (top): plus 1 example of the powder form; these can be used on any combination of plant and animal fibers, plus nylon. My liquid primaries: https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/dyefreactive.jpgFiber-reactive dyesFiber-reactive dyes, used for plant-based fibers: cotton, linen, rayon. My primary colors (clockwise from upper left)https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/dyeacids.jpgAcid dyesMy acid-dye primaries (from upper left): 2015-06-24T16:33:16+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/06/14/the-making-of-the-little-white-bra/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwb1frontfin.jpgThe Little White BraWARNING: Dramatic After shot coming up!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwb1backfin.jpgBack view of finished LWBEven though the angle of the straps where they meet the band is fairly small, I think it will help to keep the straps on my shoulders.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwb1flowergap.jpgBridging the gapAlthough I actually liked the look of the underwires extending up past the top of the bridge, I decided to use my little flower embellishment to bridge the gap. Good example of "mistakes" being the mother of creativity!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwb1bridgegap.jpgBridge gapThere's excess length in the underwire channeling here, so the arrows are pointing to where the underwires will actually end.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwb1strapaft.jpgApplying trim over strapNow you can see the slight angle of the strap. I've sewn the first pass to apply the elastic trim, over the strap; the second pass will be the 3-step zig-zag, as you can see on the lower edge of the strap. I've placed the closure here, so you can get a sense of how close the strap is placed to the center back.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwb1bridge1.jpgSewing the bridgeAfter sewing the seam at the top edge, and turning the bridge right-side out, I stay-stitched all 3 layers together, about 1/8" from the edge.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwb1strappin.jpgAngling the strapHere, I've pinned a strap in place on the back part of the band, to create an angle rather than having the strap go straight down from the shoulder.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwb1bridge.jpgSewing the bridgeAfter sewing the seam across the top of the bridge, I turned it to the right side, and stay-stitched all 3 layers together along the sides and lower edge. (The 2 under-layers don't come all the way down to the bottom of the scallops.)https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwb1trimcup1.jpgLining the upper cupsFirst, I zig-zagged the cup lining to the lace (1), then trimmed the excess from the top of the lining to just barely above the stitching line (2). This cup lining does double duty as a stabilizer for the upper edge of the cup (please note that this is different than in the pattern instructions).https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwb1mu11.jpgFirst LWB mock-upSince this is my first time making this pattern, as well as my first partial-band bra, laying it out like this helps me understand how the parts fit together. (By the way, you really can't tell in this photo, but the cup lining pieces are there, behind the upper cup and lower cup pieces. And there's a layer of lining and a layer of the Swiss dot fabric under the bridge.)2019-04-13T18:20:11+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/06/13/dye-iy-start-with-the-little-white-bra/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/lwb1fin1.jpgThe Little White BraOh, the dilemma... To dye or not to dye?https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/lwb1fin.jpgThe Little White BraOh, the dilemma... To dye or not to dye?2015-06-18T00:16:24+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/06/17/dye-iy-part-2-the-little-white-bra-that-was/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwb1befaftmark.jpgBefore & after markersSince I had a marker color that was close to my range of dye colors, I decided to color in the flower embellishment, as well as the threads. Here you can really see the difference— the marker doesn't totally make the white disappear, but it blends in a lot better now!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwb1startmark.jpgStarting to markWow, I can already see those little white lines starting to disappear!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwb1markers.jpgFabric markersMy secret weapon for erasing those white threads: Permanent fabric markers!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwb1aftdyethread.jpgPost-drying thread issueThis close-up not only shows the now glaringly-white thread, but every little tiny sewing flaw is now painfully obvious. And the flower embellishment didn't pick up much dye, for some reason.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwb1dye3.jpgColor 3 dyebathOn to Color 3! Again, the bra has just gone in, but you can see the deep purple starting to absorb into the lower 1/3 of the bra.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwb1dye2.jpgColor 2 dyebathBecause the underwires make the bra pretty rigid, it was a little tricky figuring out how to handle dipping it part of the way in; the ribbon handle helps with this. I've got large plastic bags spread over everything when dyeing, so I can just lay the upper part of the bra on them.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/lwb1dye1.jpgColor 1 dye bathMy pre-soaked bra has taken the plunge! It will heat in this dye bath until Color 1 has been absorbed. And yes, that is a crock-pot, which is only used for dyeing, not for food.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/lwb1aftfin1.jpgLWB1, after dyeingTa-da! The bra formerly known as The Little White Bra is now The Little Ombré-Dyed Bra!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/lwb1aftfin.jpgLWB1, after dyeingTa-da! The bra formerly known as The Little White Bra is now the fabulously ombré-dyed bra!2020-06-13T18:30:44+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/06/03/flash-a-versatile-new-bra-pattern-from-orange-lingerie/2015-06-27T14:13:41+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/04/29/flash-orange-lingerie-introduces-2-panty-patterns/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/il_570xn-763828589_131x.jpgThe Montgomery Hipster patternAlso new: The Montgomery Hipster brief pattern.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/il_570xn-763687808_f7ib.jpgThe Kingston Thong patternNEW: The Kingston Thong pattern from Orange Lingerie. Click the picture to see all the details in the Orange Lingerie shop. (Illustration is from Orange Lingerie's pattern listing.)2015-06-03T19:55:42+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/05/03/artecrafts-launches-new-website-celebrates-with-free-shipping/2015-05-07T19:35:43+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/04/30/size-matters-what-a-difference-a-wire-makes/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/sizebrasfin.jpgLast size checkThe first bra (on top) is still just a little smaller than the second, but it's a whole lot closer than it was before I changed the wires! And again, this difference may simply be due to seam allowances that were too big.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/sizeafterbra.jpgAfter changing to larger wiresWhat a difference— the space across the cups has increased by 2"! (The tape got knocked over to the left a little— I was juggling the tape and the camera.) And the measurement across the bottom of the band has increased too.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/sizewires.jpgComparing underwiresYep, I think it's safe to say that my wire size was affecting the fit of my bra!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/sizewirestape.jpgMeasuring underwiresWow. That is a BIG difference. Maybe those smaller wires on the first bra (top) are keeping the fabric from spreading out into its actual size?https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/sizebrastape.jpgBoth bras comparedWithout even looking at the tape measure, you can easily see the the second bra (bottom) is noticeably larger than the first: 14.5", vs. 13".https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/sizebra1tape.jpgFirst bra sizeWith the back closure fastened on the loosest setting, my first bra measures 13" across the bottom. And notice how the fabric is bunching up under the cups? More about that later.2015-06-14T17:01:41+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/04/27/shades-of-excitement-an-ombre-panty/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/blombresetfin1.jpgMy finished ombré set!This may be my favorite project so far! I'm also starting to think that if I modified the closure and strap elastic of the bra, and added linings to both pieces, it would make a fantastic swimsuit—doesn't it look a bit like those scuba-inspired suits that have been popular for several seasons?https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/blombresetfin.jpgThe finished ombré set!This may be my favorite project so far! I'm also starting to think that if I modified the closure and strap elastic of the bra, and added linings to both pieces, it would make a fantastic swimsuit!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/blombrepantytrimfin.jpgFinished mesh trimI've slipped a piece of white paper inside the panty to show the effect of the mesh trim. Cool, right?https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/blombrepantysatrim.jpgTrim seam allowance...and what it looks like after trimming 1 of the seam allowances very close to the stitching.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/blombrepantytrim3.jpgInside lookHere's a look at the inside of the panty after stitching the trim to both pieces of fabric.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/blombrepantytrim2.jpgSewing the 2nd side of trimAfter stitching the second side of the trim, the fabric edges are butted up against each other in the center of the trim.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/blombrepantytrim1.jpgMesh trim 1Darn that black thread— makes it almost impossible to see where I've stitched, which is down the solid edge of the trim on the left side. You can see through the mesh to the 1/4" seam allowance underneath.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/blombrepantycrotch.jpgCrotch lining detailI finally found some black cotton knit to use as crotch lining fabric! Here you can see enclosed seams at both ends of the crotch lining.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/blombrepantymu4.jpgPanty mock-up 4The final phase of my mock-up shows the 1" foldover elastic that will be the waistband, the 2 pieces of mesh trim at the front panel seams, and the 5/8" foldover elastic for the leg openings. Ready to start sewing!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/blombrepantymu3.jpgPanty mock-up 3Obviously I'll need a longer piece, but I'm really liking the idea of adding this trim to the front seams!2015-07-01T15:22:42+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/04/22/and-for-my-fourth-trick/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/blombrelayout.jpgPattern layoutThe nice thing about this reversible fabric is that once the pieces are cut, you can use either side. In my case, I flipped the center cup pieces from black to the blue side, and the side cup pieces from blue to black.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/blombrebrastrap.jpgFront and back straps meetFront strap, meet back strap!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/blombrebrafr.jpgBlue ombré foam-lined braMy first attempt at a foam-lined bra! I used a pattern from MakeBra.com and some beautiful ombré matte jersey, and dyed straps and channeling to match. (Click the photo to check out the pattern.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/blombrebraback.jpgBlue ombré bra, back viewHere's a look from the back of the bra, clearly showing the foam lining, which is sewn together in pieces just like the fabric cup pieces. Having the padding extending up into the straps makes them super-soft and comfortable.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/blombrebraband.jpgElastic trim detailThis interesting mesh elastic trim works harmoniously with the sporty look and feel of the rest of this bra.2015-05-29T15:39:40+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/04/22/dyeing-nylon-rings-and-sliders/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/crw_1717.jpgCRW_17172015-06-30T16:53:00+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/04/17/my-third-bra-part-3-making-a-coordinating-bikini-panty/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralbrapantyfin.jpgPanty with matching braWow, they really look good together, don't they? I love the way these colors look!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralpantyflower.jpgAdding embellishmentSince this embellishment is going on a stretchy band, I decided to stitch it on by machine.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralpantyfin.jpgFinished!My bikini panty is finished! You can just see a bit of the cotton crotch lining there, as well as the finished leg elastic bands. Smashing!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralpantywaist3.jpg2nd stitching passI've finished my 2nd stitching pass to complete my waistband. I've used a 3-step zig-zag stitch, and kept my stitching very close to the edge of the elastic. Note how this stitching lines up on the WS.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralpantywaist21.jpgAfter stitching 1st passHere you can see both sides of my elastic after stitching the 1st pass. https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralpantywaist.jpgApplying waist elasticYou want to align your fabric edge just under the fold line of the elastic, so it will be easier to fold it to the front after your 1st stitching pass.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralpantyelasticfold.jpgFinding narrower halfYou can just barely tell that one side of the foldover elastic is slightly narrower than the other. I'm going to stitch the wider side down first, to the WS of my panty.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralpantyelastic.jpgSeaming elastic piecesUsing a fairly tight zig-zag stitch, I've sewn across all 3 of my elastic pieces. I'll snip the little threads to separate them next. (The wider piece is for the top of the panty, the narrower ones for the legs.)https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralpantysides.jpgTopstitching side seamsI've used my short zig-zag stitch again for this topstitching. (Wow, my stitching is not very even! I'm sure you'll do a better job.)https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralpantycrotch6.jpgEnclosed seams finished!...it's magic! 2 completely enclosed seams! At upper right, you can see what the seam looks like on the outside of the panty. Also, in this photo, I've stay-stitched the crotch and lining together to make it easier to put on the elastic; repeat this on the other side of the crotch pieces.2015-04-19T01:16:31+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/04/10/size-matters-when-thongs-go-wrong/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thongredofin.jpgThong after re-sizing bandA bamboo knit thong featuring gorgeous stretch lace from ArteCrafts!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thongredoaftst.jpgAfter re-attaching bandAnd here's my thong, after sewing the new center-back seam, and re-attaching the band to the panty. Notice the symmetrical scallops!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thongredoseam.jpgMarking new seamlineBecause my original seam is mitered (angled to create a slight V-shape), I need to match than angle with my new seam. Note also that the top of the new seam is between scallops, and the bottom point is at the mid-point of a scallop— when I open up the seam, the scallops will be symmetrical.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thongundolace.jpgRemoving lace bandI've removed my 2 rows of stitching that connected the band to the panty. (The stitching at the top of the fabric part is stay-stitching.)https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thong1lacecu.jpgStretch lace for thongPretty... but how much will it stretch?2015-04-19T00:28:32+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/04/16/my-third-bra-part-2-finishing-up/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralfronttrim1.jpgNeckline elasticHere, I've folded my trim to the WS just prior to sewing my 2nd pass. Note: At center front, go ahead and stitch your elastic down over the channeling ends. https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralbackstrap.jpgStitching down the back strapThere are also 2 stitching passes to secure the strap at the back, but they're both done with the RS facing you. https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralbrafin1.jpgThird bra finished!After adding the cute little embellishments, my third bra is finished!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralbasteclosure.jpgFinishing the closureTop: I've hand-basted both closure pieces in place. Bottom: I've zig-zagged my way around all 4 sides of each piece.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralclosure1.jpgSizing the closureTop: Looks like no matter where I sew down my elastic, there won't be enough width for 3 hooks. Bottom: With a 2-hook closure, I'll have to trim my fabric just a tiny bit before sewing my strap down.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralstrapfin.jpgFinishing the strapsHere's my strap, with the satin tubing connected to the now-adjustable elastic strap.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralstrap3.jpgAdding strap to tubingAgain paying attention to the RS and WS, insert strap through tubing strands (top), then thread the strap back through the slider, just as you did before.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralstrap1.jpgBack strapNow I'm getting my strap elastic ready.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralstrap2.jpgStitching strap extensionHere's how I finished my strap extension in the front. At top, I've made my 1st stitching pass along the neckline edge, and completed the 2nd pass at the underarm edge. https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralwires.jpgInserting underwiresI'm putting in my wires now so that I can make the 2nd stitching pass to finish the underarm trim.2015-06-19T12:09:37+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/04/04/its-a-thong-story-and-now-its-done/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thong1finfr.jpgFront of finished thongWow, that lace is wide! But even with narrower lace, it's pretty hard to get it to be proportional to the actual panty part.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thong1finback.jpgBack of finished thongA look at the back, where you can see a bit of the crotch lining.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thongfinbra.jpgFinished thong with braAlthough, strictly speaking, this thong doesn't match the bra, it certainly coordinates well!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thonglacefin.jpgLace close-upEven with 2 stitching passes to secure the lace to the fabric, the stitching is virtually invisible.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thongstlace.jpgStitching lines for laceThis is the back of the thong, showing the placement for the first stitching pass (1), and the second pass (2). I like to make my second pass in a line that connects the low spots between scallops.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thonglace2.jpgPinning lace in place (WS)Here's what it looks like on the inside, after pining the lace to the front. You can use your stay-stitching line as a guide for your first stitching pass.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thonglace1.jpgPinning lace in placeMatch the center-front lace seam with the center point of the V of the front fabric piece. Overlapping the fabric by about 3/8", pin lace in place. Repeat for the back of the thong.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thongelasticfin.jpgFinished elastic trimDoesn't that elastic trim look nice? Here, you can pretty easily see what I was talking about— one half of the elastic is wider than the other half.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thongelastic2.jpg2nd elastic stitching passThis time, I'm stitching very close to the edge of the elastic, making sure the folded edge of elastic is right up against the edge of the fabric.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thongelastic1.jpgFoldover elastic 1st passSewing the first (of 2) passes with my foldover elastic trim.2015-06-05T16:18:27+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/04/01/its-a-thong-story/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thongmufinal.jpgFinal mock-up of thongAll mocked-up and ready to sew!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thongmiterback.jpgChecking the back miterThe back miter is pinned just as for the front; the angle is a little shallower here (and the fabric piece is a lot smaller!). You can see a bit of the continuous loop formed by the lace, now that it's connecting the front and back thong pieces.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thongmiterfr2.jpgChecking the front miterHere, the pinned lace pieces have been flipped over; you're looking at the right sides of the lace and fabric. This is the final check to make sure the miter angle is correct.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thongmiterfr.jpgMitering lace in frontI've lined up the angle of the lace with the V-shaped top line of my front piece, then pinned along where my stitching line will be.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thongmu1.jpgAfter pieces are cutI've cut the front and back thong pieces, using my modified patterns, and also cut the crotch lining (using the original pattern) from a soft cotton knit. (The teal fabric is a silky bamboo/Spandex knit.)https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thongpatbag.jpgOrganizing your patternsOn the left is my main bag for this pattern; on top of the pattern envelope, you can see a smaller bag with the traced pattern pieces. On the right, I've put the modified pieces in a separate bag.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thongpatmod4.jpgFinalizing my patternOn a separate piece of tissue paper, I've trace over my pattern, this time eliminating the upper parts of each piece. What I'm left with is what I'll cut out of fabric; the rest will be lace.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thongpatmod3back1.jpgModifying the back patternAt the far left is the back pattern for my thong, again with green lines indicating the new cutting line.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thongpatmod11.jpgModifying the front patternThe original thong pattern is traced in purple; I've drawn a straight(ish) line in green where I want my lace to go, starting at the side seam (top left of pattern). The top green line is where I'll actually cut my fabric, minus the skinny bit going out to the side. P.S. Color-coding is a great way to keep track of your pattern modifications!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/thongpatmod2lace.jpgLining up the laceHere, I've laid my lace trim over my modified pattern piece, just to check how it's looking so far. I've also folded back the upper right corner of the lace, to get an idea of how much I'll need to miter the center-front seam.2015-04-17T18:49:34+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/03/30/my-second-brapanty-project-thoughts-observations/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbrapantyset2.jpg2nd bra & panty setYes— what made me want to do this in the first place?2015-04-17T18:48:33+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/03/24/my-second-bra-part-5-making-a-coordinating-high-waisted-panty/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndpantyfin2.jpgFinished panty!Here's the whole finished panty! Yes, there is a lot of coverage there, but to me, it's like a pretty version of shapewear. I love it!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbrapantyset1.jpgBra with coordinating pantyA combination of black lace and hand-dyed stretch fabric makes this panty work with the bra.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndpantyelastic.jpgFinishing elastic trimOnce you've seamed the ends of your 3 pieces of elastic, you'll attach them all to the legs and waist of your panty in the same way, shown here. You'll want to stretch your elastic as you sew, but only very slightly.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndpantyseamelastic.jpgSeaming elastic piecesThe most important thing here is making sure you've got the right sides together before seaming. And for the least bulk, leave this seam open.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndpantybackseams.jpgSewing back seamsThe side panels have been sewn to the back panel. Note about the turquoise fabric: This is one of the materials I dyed myself for this project, and the sort of marbling (not to say tie-dye) effect is mostly due to deliberately scrunching up the fabric in the container with the dye. Personally, I like this better than flat solid colors.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndpantycrotch4.jpgFinishing crotch liningAnd my crotch lining is complete! Important note: I used off-white thread on top and black thread in my bobbin to make this stitching virtually invisible, especially on the outside.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndpantycrotch3.jpgAfter sewing crotch seamHere you can see how nice (professional!) that enclosed crotch seam looks: no exposed edges on either side of that seam!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndpantycrotch2.jpgCrotch layers pinned togetherNow all 3 layers are pinned into place and ready to sew!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndpantycrotch1.jpgCrotch lining layersI've just put in 1 pin here, so you can clearly see how the layers stack up: front panel, right side (RS) up, followed by back panel, wrong side up. Last, the crotch lining piece goes on top, wrong side up.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndpantypieces.jpgLayout of panty piecesFront, side, and back panels laid next to each other as they will be sewn. Note that the 2 front panel layers are pinned together at this stage; I'll baste them together before I start sewing seams. (Also note that only 1 of the 2 side panels is shown here.)2015-04-17T18:46:32+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/03/22/my-second-bra-part-4-finishing/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbrapinstrap1.jpgPinning the strap in placeAfter assembling your straps with rings and sliders, attach them to the top of the power bar. (Note: Your pattern may or may not have a power bar like the Marlborough Bra does, but it will most likely have some sort of extension on the upper cup that will be the attachment point for your straps.)https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbrafb1.jpgFinished bra, front and back Here are the front and back views of my second bra! It may not be to everyone's taste, but I personally love the added spark that my hand-dyed pieces (straps, back closure, channeling) bring to this bra.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbraclosure2.jpgStitching the closures in placeStitching through all layers at once, I've zig-zagged the vertical parts that attach the closures to the bands, and continued the stitching across the horizontal (cut) edges to finish them nicely.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbraclosure1.jpgClosures basted in placeAfter making sure I have the hook and eye sides properly placed, I've hand-basted the pieces in place on the ends of the back bands.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbrachannelfinish.jpgFinishing the underarm channelingHere, you can see how I've tucked the trimmed end of my channeling neatly under the elastic, prior to sewing the second pass. Starting from where the initial stitching of the channeling left off, I've completed stitching the channeling the short distance up to the elastic. (If you're wondering about the white stitching on the channeling, that part didn't absorb any dye!)https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbraelastic2.jpgSecond stitching of elastic trimFor the second stitching pass to secure the elastic trim, use a 3-step zig-zag stitch if your machine has this option; otherwise, use a fairly wide regular zig-zag.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbraelastic1a.jpgInside look at sewing elasticThe green arrow points to the first stitching pass; use a small zig-zag for this.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbraelastic11.jpgElastic trim: sewing the first passAfter aligning the non-picot edge of your elastic with the fabric edge, you want to stitch as close as possible to the inside edge of the elastic. (Since I'm sewing here with black thread, it's nearly impossible to see my stitches, so I'm representing them with the small white vees.)2015-07-25T23:46:46+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/03/21/my-second-bra-part-3-putting-it-together/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbrachannel1.jpgSewing channeling on the insideasdfsdfhttps://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbraband.jpgThe band goes on!The band goes on! This pattern specifies this should be made of powernet, the only stretch fabric in the entire bra (except for the elastic trim and straps).https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbrachannelcu.jpgDetail of channeling stitchingThe 2 stitching rows from sewing on the channeling look like topstitching on the outside.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbrabrcu.jpgCloseup of bridgeDetail of the bridge after sewing cups in place. Note (again) how nicely matched the scalloped edges turned out!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbracupsframe1.jpgCups sewn into frameThis is where it finally starts looking like a real bra!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbrabridgefr.jpgConnecting the bridge and frameHere, I've sewn the little seam connecting one of the frame pieces to the bridge.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbratopstitch.jpgTopstitched power bar seamTopstitching this seam is both decorative and structural: it helps to flatten the seam, which keeps it from rolling over where it would show through the lace.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbrapowerbar1.jpgCompleting the cup with the power barNow that I've sewn the power bar to the upper-lower cup combo, my cup is complete!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbracups.jpgUpper and lower cups sewnI've sewn my upper cups (lace) to the lower cups. You can already see how the curving seams are creating a 3-dimensional shape.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbramu.jpgMockup of my second braLaying out my bra pieces, along with straps and other notions, helps me visualize the finished bra.2015-04-17T18:40:26+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/03/17/all-the-pretty-pieces-postscript-dyed-to-match/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/dyed1colorpieces.jpgPieces dyed with the same color1. Like the turquoise version (see photo at top of post), the stretch lace fabric retained the white flower outlines. 2. Curiously, on this bra back closure, the hooks and eyes took on a pink tint, while the elastic stayed white. But if you stretch that elastic out, there are strands inside that are bright fuchsia! Also note that the stitching stayed white— this is most likely sewn with polyester thread. 3. Semi-sheer dotted stretch mesh. 4. Underwire channeling. 5. Panty Spandex. 6. Stretch lace trim.2015-04-17T18:38:07+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/03/16/all-the-pretty-pieces-dyeing-to-match-or-not/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbradyedpts.jpgDyed pieces after drying1. Stretch lace fabric (may be used for the panty, not sure yet). 2. Channeling. 3. Bra straps. 4. Back closure. 5. Waistband elastic; this absorbed very little dye; I probably won't use it for this project. 6. Panty Spandex.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbradyedmatls.jpgDyed pieces with print fabricSee how beautifully my dyed pieces coordinate with my silk print fabric (1)? 2. Stretch lace fabric. 3. Bra straps. 4. Channeling. 5. Back closure. 6. Panty Spandex.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbrabags.jpg2ndbrabagshttps://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbradyeprocess.jpgDyeing in progressSince I'm dyeing the small pieces each with different colors, I've chosen the wrap/steam method (left). 1. Back closure. 2. Stretch lace trim. 3. Channeling. 4. Straps. The larger fabric pieces are immersed directly into the dye bath (right). 5. Panty Spandex. 6. Stretch lace fabric.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/undyedmatls.jpgUndyed materials1. Stretch lace fabric. 2. Channeling. 3. Back closure for bra. Dotted stretch mesh fabric. 5. Panty Spandex. 6. Stretch lace trim.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2ndbramatls1.jpgMaterials for my second braThe main elements going into my second bra: 1. Sheer silk print, to be layered over 2. Silk snakeskin print (the same fabric I used for my first bra!). 3. Black stretch lace, to be layered over 4. Bamboo/spandex for coordinating panty. 5. Black picot-edge elastic trim for both bra and panty.2015-04-17T18:36:08+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/03/10/my-second-bra-part-1-choosing-a-pattern/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/brapattern21.jpgOrganizing my bra patternHaving an organization system for your projects in place before you start sewing is one of the best ways to ensure repeatable results.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/brapattern3.jpgMarking pattern changesDrawing both the original pattern lines and the alteration lines helps me keep track of the changes I've made.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/brapattern1.jpgMy pattern: The Marlborough BraThe Marlborough Bra pattern is the one I used for my first bra. Now I'm going to tweak some of the pattern pieces for an even better fit. (The book, Demystifying Bra Fitting & Construction, is by Norma Loehr, the designer of this pattern and owner of Orange Lingerie.)2015-04-17T18:33:24+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/03/11/my-second-bra-part-2-materials-from-the-scrap-stash/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/bra2fabrics3.jpgMaterials for second braBlack elastic trim adds a nice touch to this grouping of materials.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/bra2fabrics2.jpgLace plus panty fabricsI've found a pretty black lace that looks good with my prints; I'll most likely trim off the straight top edge, leaving the scallops (left). On the right, I've pulled the deep jade bamboo/silk knit and a black stretch lace fabric to use in making a matching (well, coordinating) panty.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/bra2fabrics1.jpgMain fabric & backing fabricFor my main fabric, I've chosen this beautiful sheer silk/rayon print (on left); because it needs a backing fabric (for stability as well as opacity), I think I'll use the same silk snakeskin print that's the main fabric in my first bra.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/scrapstashsorted.jpgScraps sorted by colorMy habit is to group things by color (you should see my closet), and in this case, the process immediately helps me see project possibilities.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/scrapstashcu.jpgScrap stash, close-upThis gives a more detailed look at the variety of colors and textures available in my stash. Wonder what you'll find in yours?https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/scrapstash1.jpgMy scrap stashQuite an impressive pile, isn't it? Out of my total stash, I pulled just silk and lace fabrics, which will hopefully become the main ingredients in my new bra wardrobe.2015-12-16T23:21:40+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/03/05/my-first-hand-made-bra/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/firstbra-e1425597845607.jpgMy first bra!Using the bra fabric on the front panel of the panty is an easy way to coordinate the pieces.2015-04-17T18:26:19+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/04/13/my-third-bra-something-completely-different/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralembellish.jpgEmbellishingNow that my cups have been sewn into the band, I'm trying my little daisy embellishments to see if I like them (I do).https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralcupcu.jpgCup detailsLet's take a closer look at this cup. (Not too close— my stitching is all crooked!) Note the topstitching on the cup seam. The stabilized cups and their linings have been basted together.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralband1.jpgSewing the bandThis pattern calls for cutting the entire band out of powernet material; the 2 pieces are seamed together at center front. Here, I've stitched my cups together and basted them to their linings.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralcuppin.jpgPinned cupsOne last check to make sure my lace pieces are mirror images of each other before I sew the cups together. Looks good!https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/corallaceaftcut.jpgAfter cutting laceHere's one of the lower cups with the lace overlay; I'll baste the lace on before stitching this piece to the upper cup.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralcutlace.jpgCutting the lace piecesHere, I've placed my lower cup pattern on the lace. The lace has been folded (since I need 2 pieces) and the scallops matched, so they'll be symmetrical on the cups. Also, I've lined up the center of the piece with the center of a scallop.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/corallacefin.jpgPlacing the lace 3We have a winner! Orienting the lace scallop-edge down means I won't need to even stitch down that lower edge.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/corallacecup.jpgPlacing the laceWith my upper and lower cup pieces pinned together, I'm trying out different ways of placing my lace trim to see what I like best. I'm not sure...https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralbratricot.jpgStabilizing bra cupsHere, I've cut and fused my sheer tricot to the upper cup pieces. (The lower cups get the same treatment.) These bra cups are lined; note "cut 4" on the pattern piece. A nice thing about this pattern is that it indicates not only the grain line, but the stretch line, or direction of greatest stretch, a very important concept in bra-making.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/coralbrapantymatls.jpgNew bra & panty materialsasdlkfj2015-06-15T01:09:20+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.com/2015/04/06/what-lingerie-do-you-actually-need-the-panty-edition/https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/r29hiwaisted.jpgr29hiwaistedI'm liking the effective use of this unusual print, and the clean edge finishing. And it looks like it would be pretty simple to make.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/r29pantytypes.jpgr29pantytypesWhat types of panties do we need? Refinery29's slideshow spells it out. Click on the image (credit: Refinery29.com) to go to the slideshow.https://mybratelier.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/r29gstring.jpgr29gstringReally? I need this?2015-06-28T20:43:22+00:00monthlyhttps://mybratelier.comdaily1.02020-06-29T02:41:01+00:00